Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has always characterized its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known gems that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their younger generation do not want to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to discover these stories and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
