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When curating a list of London’s top eateries, one might expect well-known high-end venues. Yet, situated prominently among these culinary titans is a modest salonu located in a distant area of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has made the owners utterly astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” says the family member, pointing to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble shop securing such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. As the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.